October Guest Speaker – Mindy from Raven Knits Design

The temperature is starting to dip to normal fall levels, and it was perfect timing to welcome Mindy from Raven Knits Design to Yarn Club this month for a talk all about shawls.

You can find more information about Mindy’s patterns on Ravelry, where she maintains a Ravelry group called the Raven’s Nest. If you’re new to groups on Ravelry, be warned that this group can get quite heated in their discussions, but everyone is welcome.

Mindy also mentioned her involvement with the Indie Design 2017 Gift-A-Long, where you can score a great deal on independently designed patterns. New to the idea of a Gift-A-Long? Check out the FAQ page for more information. The action starts November 21 and goes right through December 31 – plenty of time to bang out a few holiday projects.

While listening to Mindy’s talk, I had a few highlights I wanted to share about what I learned:

  • A bowed triangular shawl is called “heart shaped”, and it’s a lovely thing that will prevent the bunching up of the shawl at the back of your neck.
  • A broad centre panel to your triangular shawl makes for a more flattering shape. There will be no “arrow” point of the shawl, pointing directly to your bottom. Here’s a great example from Mindy’s pattern collection, this is Stone Serpent:

Stone Serpent, photo via Raven Knits Design, Ravelry

  • And possibly my most favourite thing from Mindy’s talk was the Sontag shawl, which isn’t a particular pattern, but rather a style of wearing your shawl. Mindy demonstrated this with one of her favourite shawls. She said this is how she wears her shawls at home as an extra layer, and her arms are free to move around while she’s knitting or doing the dishes. This requires longer ends for your triangular shawl, so the ends can wrap around you and tie in the back. Mindy’s rule of thumb is a shawl that is as wide as your arm span (or longer!). Mindy has a page on Ravelry for her triangular and Sontag shawl designs if you’re looking for a pattern.

Image result for sontag shawlPhoto via Joy Melcher, civilwarlady.net

Here’s a great example from Ravelry:

Kay’s Tess D’Urbervilles Shawl, photo via Kay Meadors, Ravelry

  • For blocking your shawls, do as Mindy does and stretch the heck out of them! You want the lacework to open up, so don’t be timid about pulling on those pins and blocking wires.

Tiliacaea, photo via Raven Knits Design, Ravelry

  • Worried about how much yarn your triangular shawl is going to eat up? Tired of playing yarn chicken? Mindy gave us some helpful pointers on the math involved in a triangular shawl, and to make your life easier, there’s a spreadsheet for that! Check out Rose-Kim Knits and download the Shawl Progress Calculator (link on the right side).
  • For anyone looking for your own round shawl pin like the one Mindy used in her demonstrations, search for a “penannular shawl pin” the next time you’re at a show or shop. I found a few beautiful examples with a quick search on Etsy.

Mindy kindly set up a discount offer for her patterns for Yarn Club members. Check your inbox for a special email with the promotion code, valid until November 5.

Thank you again to Mindy for sharing her passion for shawls with us!

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September Show and Share

Jo shared her work in progress So Faded sweater, made with Richard Devrieze yarn.

So Faded, photo via Andrea Mowry, Ravelry

Liz shared her Om Shawl, which has some interesting options for wearing the finished piece. Liz chose to sew on only some of the many buttons called for in the pattern, and she modeled it for us in a cardigan style.

Om Shawl, photo via Andrea Mowry, Ravelry

Om Shawl, photo via Andrea Mowry, Ravelry

I shared my recently completed Bronwyn pullover by Melissa Wehrle. I’d love to show you a picture of how nice it looks on me, but it’s simply been too hot to think about pulling on a woolly outer layer. For a few precious weeks when I first finished it, I was wearing it every morning for my daily dog walks.

Bronwyn, photo via Brooklyn Tweed, Ravelry

Beautiful work all around, and a few projects even included short rows, which was a great tie-in to the September discussion topic.

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Short Rows and a hello from your new hosts

What a great turnout for our first meeting of the year, thank you to all who attended during what I know can be a very busy time of year. If you missed the Yarn Club meeting, let me catch you up on a fairly big change before I share some great resources from our talk.

This coming Yarn Club year, Alexis will be taking time off to spend with her family and her newest addition, a baby boy due in October. She isn’t going anywhere, and will still come to meetings when she can, but our monthly meetings, blog updates, and general administration will be handled by two new faces this year.

Enter: Victoria and Catherine.

Hi! I’m Victoria!

I am a friend of Alexis and a Yarn Club member since the beginning, and I am absolutely tickled to be keeping Yarn Club going while our fearless leader takes a break. Joining me is my fellow Yarn Club member and very dear friend Catherine. Together we will host Yarn Club meetings and keep you in the loop in the fibre community this year.

You can reach us with any Yarn Club questions or comments through email at GuelphYarnClub AT gmail DOT com.

Ravelry contact:

Victoria – vrock
Catherine – fruwho

We look forward to getting to know you all better this year.

This month, we delved into an introduction to short rows.

I was very open about my lack of expertise with short rows; I did a lot of research and swatching to prepare the talk this month, and the resources I used were a great help to me in creating the presentation, and hopefully in my future knitting.

It was a challenge to present this topic without getting too heavy into technical information. I purposely chose to NOT drone on about exactly how to execute short rows, and I made the assumption that most members were familiar with the concept of short rows. If you aren’t, and you want to start from the beginning, I found this article from Interweave very helpful. It walks you through the basics of four very common short row methods – wrap and turn, yarn over, the Japanese or pinned method, and the catch method:

Short Row Knitting – The Ultimate Guide

Once we covered some familiar ground with the common short row methods, we moved right into applications in our knitting.

I saved garment shaping for the end, and expanded on short row methods with a study in sock heeling shaping.

I adore knitting socks. They’re such a portable project, they can be plain Jane or complicated, and they’re a fun place to experiment with new stitches or techniques. I’ll be upfront and honest here, I haven’t done a lot of different sock heels. I’m kind of a wrap and turn fan, as this was the first short row technique I learned, and it hasn’t steered me wrong yet. It was eye opening and really interesting to try new heel techniques, and I encourage you all to follow in my footsteps and make a series of itsy bitsy heel swatches for the sake of your knitting education.

The first set of swatches I created came from Nancy Bush’s Knitting Vintage Socks: New Twists on Classic Patterns. This is a great book to add to your library if you’re interested in vintage patterns that are adapted for modern yarn and knitters. I tested out the Dutch/horseshoe heel, the Welsh heel, and the French/round heel. Each one used a different short row method, and had a distinct look. All three use a heel flap construction on a top-down sock.

I also looked at heels turned using short rows only, no heel flap. These could be added to a toe-up or top-down sock. The five short row methods I tested out were wrap and turn, yarn over, German/double stitch, Japanese/pinned, and the shadow wrapped method. I tried these methods out on swatches, and the instructions for these all came from a very help website, The Chilly Dog, which detailed each method with lots of pictures and step by step instructions.

Photo via The Chilly Dog: 5 Knit Short Row Sock Heels

Garment shaping is another great application of short rows. We scratched the surface by discussing shoulder shaping and adding bust darts to a garment.

Photo via Sarah White: A Trick to Make Seaming Shoulders Easier

Things got more intense when we discussed bust darts. If you have any sewing knowledge, or you wear clothes, this will be familiar to you:

Photo via By Gum By Golly: Finished: 1940s Simplicity Diamonds Skirt and Alma Blouse

Interweave has a lovely introduction to adding bust shaping in your knitting:

Shaping a Bust with Short-Rows

And the most helpful blog I came across was Knitting Bust Darts by Connie Hester. Highly, HIGHLY recommend. Great pictures, great examples, a solid discussion on short row shaping. This article walks you through how to add shaping to your next garment.

3 inches of Short Rows 3 by Connie Hester

Photo via Connie Hester: Knitting Bust Darts

As an added bonus, I threw in a quick few slides about adding vertical darts to your knitting in place of short row shaping. The link to Connie Hester’s blog details these instructions with examples as well.


A great example of vertical bust shaping, Hvitveis by Lene Tøsti

And while we didn’t get into discussing short rows as design features or unique construction elements, I finished things off with some examples of short row projects to inspire you.

Waiting for Rain by Sylvia McFadden

Toph by Wooly Wormhead

Goldfinch by Andrea Mowry

Catherine wrapped things up for the night with a hands-on mini workshop about entrelac. Her beautiful entrelac blanket took 3 years to finish and was modified from a scarf pattern.

Catherine’s Entrelac Blanket


Entrelac Scarf by Allison LoCicero

For anyone who wants to give entrelac a try, here are the instructions Catherine shared at the meeting:
And for the crocheters, you’re in for a treat. Catherine’s first love is crochet and here’s a curated search of patterns for crochet entrelac.
Happy knitting!
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Attaching Edgings – Knit & Crochet

(The Maryborough Vest pictured above is an example of a pattern that attaches edging as-you-go)

Many knitting books devoted to edgings still advise that you’ll need to seam the edging to your project.  Unless they’re referring to attaching knit or crocheted edging to a woven commercial fabric, this just isn’t true.  This misconception about how to you must attach edgings is a particular pet-peeve of mine; after all, crocheters would scoff at the idea of sewing an edging to an afghan.  When it comes to edging, knitters should take a page from the crocheter’s book instead (and if you’re a knitter, edging is a great place to start adding a few crochet skills to your arsenal!)

In that vein, I’ll start with the versatile crochet edge.  Not just for crochet, you can apply crochet to the edge of any fabric, knit or woven.  When I use it with knitting, I find adding a foundation row of single crochet all the way around the edge of my project provides a good base for then creating more intricate designs.

Here’s how:


Now to knit edgings: there are two types.  Type 1 is worked lengthways (where the length refers to the work on the edging, i.e. the edging is worked back and forth to form a long strip which needs to be attached to the project in some way).  This is the type of knit edging that books often dismiss as needing seaming. However, you can knit Lengthways Knit Edging on to your project in a couple of different ways.

When you already have live stitches on your needles from your project, you can attach edging like this (also called an applied border, thanks Ms. Zimmerman!):

Similarly, you can pick up stitches along a cast-on or bound-off edge to create live stitches that can then be used in the above technique.

My favourite technique, and IMO the most versatile, as it allows you to work on very large pieces of knitting without picking up all the necessary stitches before you start (read: no enormously long circulars), is to attach the border by picking up stitches along the edge of your project as you go.  This one isn’t as easy to find a video for, so I made my own (complete with mid-stream fast-motion to make me the fastest knitter in the world):

Because knit stitches are wide and short, when working along a cast-on or bound-off edge I am only picking up and attaching stitches on the right side row, so that the wrong side can fill in the extra space. When I come to the last stitch in my edging RS row, I slip it, pick up a stitch from the edge of the swatch, and knit the two stitches together through the back loop.  This way the edging stitch lies on top of the swatch stitch.

Once you are finished one edge, you have to turn a corner to keep going:

In order to turn a corner so that the knitting doesn’t buckle as it turns, I use a series of little short rows to make the corner neat and pointed, not unlike one side of a short-row sock heel.

And finally, the side-edge:

Since I’m working on a side edge, I’m picking up and attaching a stitch from the swatch to every row of the edging, so that the rows of edging match exactly to the rows of the swatch. The last stitch from the RS row is attached, and the first stitch from the WS row is attached. I’m using an SSK to attach the RS row, and a P2tog to attach the WS row, but as long as you are consistent you can use whatever decrease stitch you like and it will look neat and uniform.

Knit edging Type 2 are edgings that are worked widthways (so worked along the whole required width of the edging).  2A, as noted above, is edging that would begin a project, such as a bottom ruffle on a sleeve or hem.  2B is edging worked from it’s top edge “down” which is confusing but means you could end a project with that, as it ends with a bind-off – for example, edgings used to finish circular or semi-circular shawls. Most sweater necklines fall under this 2B category as well.

Obviously these types of edging are very easy to use without seaming, however if applying them to a side-edge, all the stitches required to work a number of repeats of the edging pattern would have to be picked up first.

A few other things you might find inspiring:

That’s it for a start! Knitting on the edge…

Have fun 🙂

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June Show & Share

Alfie brought in multiple bags of projects to share in June! Here are just a few we snapped pictures of:

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Oceanwind Knits – Resources for Knit Design

At our May meeting, Yarn Club enjoyed a great discussion with Lori Law of Oceanwind Knits about the ins & outs of knitwear design and pattern publication.  Here are the resources Lori shared with us after her talk:

Stitch pattern ‘dictionaries’ are the backbone of knitting design.

(One of my first and still favourites – Alexis)

Books I use regularly :

  • Ann Budd’s “Handy Books”
  • Sock books by Cookie A have very good technical information for building sock designs.

  • Shirley Paden’s “Knitwear Design Workshop” (although I have yet to actually publish a sweater pattern, I will one day.  :))

Ravelry has some designer group forums which are always interesting to follow.

I keep multiple spreadsheets of general sizing information which I can transfer into designs.  (I do not know where precisely I retrieved all of this sizing from, I gathered it via Google over many years).

Craft Yarn Council website.

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May Yarn Club Show & Share

So many great projects and patterns this month!

Liz wore her Sunshine Coast sweater by Heidi Kirrmaier, made with Lang Seta Tweed.

Valerie showed off her finished and blocked Croeso, Lace & Cable Shawlette by Camille Coizy Delahaie, made with Viking of Norway Alpaca Silk.

Erin brought in her Cascades pullover by Michele Wang, made with Brooklyn Tweed Shelter

Karen showed her All About That Brioche shawl by Lisa Hannes, made with Paca Peds – Alpaca, Superwash Wool & Nylon.

Terri brought in her tiny Raindrops pullover by Tin Can Knits for a new baby, mad with Knit Picks Kettle Dyed Sock Yarn

Marilyn shared her Stripe It Away test knit for Meiju K-P, made with Ancient Arts & MadelineTosh Light.

Gillian wore her Omena vest by Jill Zielinski, made with Plucky Scholar.

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The Baby Sock Reading Challenge & How to “Read” Your Knitting

If you’re just starting out, or don’t know what I mean by “reading” your knitting, let me first direct you to these two excellent series of blog posts:

“Reading” Your Knitting (Parts 1, 2 & 3) by Talena Winters

The Secret to Becoming a Great Knitter! (Parts 1, 2 & 3) by Felicia of the Craft Sessions

These are great starting points for mastering this skill.  The best way to learn to “read” the stitches you are or have knitting, however, is practice.  Keen observation of what the yarn is doing in your hands as you complete each knitted stitch, decrease, increase, yarn over, cable; what these stitches look like as you progress (what do they look like right after they’ve been made? what do they look like a few rows down?); these are the puzzle pieces that will make this skill come together for you.

I’ve given a lot of thought to how I would teach this in a workshop situation, and although Yarn Club meetings aren’t workshop-length, I thought I might try out my idea amongst our friendly and open minded group.

The Baby Sock Reading Challenge

The idea is simple enough: You make one baby sock without instructions, and without taking notes.  Then you make the matching sock by looking at the first and deciphering what you did from its stitches.  If they don’t end up matching exactly, well, they’re just baby socks and you haven’t wasted much time trying.  And maybe you’ve learned something (such as how to accurately count rows, or how to make a sock without a pattern, or that you CAN read knitting and didn’t realize it, or that you absolutely HATE knitting without precise instructions…).  Obviously my hope is that you learn to recognize that reading knitting in this way is a possibility, and one that can take your knitting to the next level, with time.

To illustrate my challenge, I made a baby sock, and went through how I would go about reading it to make the second.  I also wrote out my Patternless Sock Guidelines, to help start you off.  You’ll find many other great sock “recipes” on Ravelry as well, such as this one from Susan B. Anderson.

Knowing the cuff rib repeat makes counting the stitches easy.  Mark your starting point with a needle (or in my case a thumb – remember, lazy!) and count around by twos for a [K1, P1] rib as here.

I use a very low profile cast-on for my sock cuffs.  The Double Twist Loop Cast-On is quick and stretchy, and doesn’t interfere with row counting.  You can see the red outlining the cast-on in the image above. Count the rows up from your cast-on edge by counting the little Vs that occur above the cast-on and before the beginning of the stitch pattern.

If you choose a stitch pattern with an easy repeat (I used Double Moss Stitch) you can count the leg rows in number of pattern repeats, rather than individual rows, which can make things faster, particularly if you’re working on an adult-size sock.

Slip-stitch patterns can be difficult to learn to recognize, but the trick is to watch for the larger stitches that span the height of two smaller stitches.  These elongated stitches are the ones that have been slipped. In the Eye of Partridge slip stitch pattern, the elongated stitches appear in a checkered pattern with the groups of two smaller stitches in between.

Count the heel flap stitches in the same way you would the cuff stitches – in the case of my Double Moss Stitch, by twos. Alternately you can count the slipped-stitch pattern by single stitches and add the selvage stitches on each side to the count.

I use two or three garter selvage stitches on each side of my heel flaps.  Not only does this make stitches easier to pick up along the edge, it also makes it easier to count how many rows I have worked in the heel flap.

You can see the decreases stitches overlapping in the turned heel which is your clue to it being a short-row decrease heel (as opposed to a straight short-row heel, which would have visible wrapped stitches).

The number of stitches between where decreases begin is your heel’s “turning point.” See my sock guidelines for a heel turning point explanation.

If you make an identical heel flap to your first sock, chances are you’ll be picking up exactly the same number of gusset stitches anyway.  You can count them easily enough, but know that if you have an extra stitch in there, it’s not going to make much of a difference since you’ll be decreasing to the original number of stitches anyway, and if it seems like you NEED that extra stitch in there this time (to avoid a hole for example) it will probably look better with the stitch than without it – stitch counts be d***ed.

You can identify a decrease pattern by looking for the decrease stitches (the ones leaning over a little extra) and also counting the rows in between those dec sts.  Above the dec sts are identified by the red dots, and you can see there’s a regular stitch between them as the rows progress.  So, the decreases are being worked ever other row.

I count the foot length in single rows from the final gusset decrease to the first toe decrease because they line up, and because that final gusset decrease might happen halfway through a pattern repeat on the instep, which makes it more difficult to count.

In order to make a nice round flat toe, the decrease pattern needs to be a little more complicated than the gussett decrease to achieve the gently increasing curve.  Just as with the gusset decreases though, you simply identify those extra-leany stitches, and count the resting rounds between them.  I think of them expressed like this: D, 2, D, 1, D, D, D – wherein the D stands for a decrease row, and the numbers stand for the number of resting rounds between them.

Counting the sts grafted at the tip gives you half the final stitch count.  For instance, if there are 5 grafted stitches forming the toe tip, you know that there were 5 x 2 sts = 10 sts total to form that graft, and therefore 10 sts left on the needles when the knitting stopped.

Et voilà! Now I just need to finish the other one…

Happy reading!

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Alexis’s Patternless Sock Guidelines (for the Baby Sock Reading Challenge)

This is how I make most of my socks: top down, heel-flap, decrease short-row heel, flat round toe – no matter the gauge, needle size or yarn weight.  I use the method described below to make the first sock, then I use the finished first sock as a template to make the second.  In all honesty, this method arose from utter laziness.  I’d much rather crack on with my knitting than stop and take notes (ahem, though of course, not while I’m designing for pattern writing).  So instead of writing anything down, I just look back at the first sock and read what I’ve done from there.

It wasn’t always perfect.  Sometimes my unwillingness to take notes during my leisure knitting resulted in rows ripped back and redone.  But eventually, what was born from laziness has made me a stronger knitter.  It was not too long after I started doing this that I realized I could look at almost any knitted thing and write down instructions for making it.  It was a turning point in how I knit, and I always try to encourage others to seek a similar freedom.  Socks are a great way to do this because you have to make two, and they can be made quickly.  To read more about how I decipher a sock, see the Baby Sock Reading Challenge.

Patternless Sock Guidelines


Using your chosen needle size & yarn weight, CO about 20 sts, and work about 6 – 8 rows in a rib pattern or St st.  When this is done, pull the knitting off the needle and measure your stitch gauge.  Use this measurement to decide how many stitches to cast on, remembering that you’ll want to make your sock with a certain amount of negative ease.

My Gauges: For the kid’s sock in the Baby Sock Reading Challenge, I used 3.5 mm needles, DK weight yarn, and 30 sts. For an adult women’s sock, I usually CO about 60 sts with sock weight yarn and 2.5 mm needles.  For a man’s I increase this to about 66 sts (I like my stitches to be divisible by 2 and 3 if possible).


Pick a rib pattern for the cuff (if you swatched in rib, might as well use that one!), CO your sts, and work until you’ve got the length of cuff you like. Note: take for granted that you should be working in complete rounds.


Pick a main stitch pattern for your sock and switch from rib to the new pattern. Work until you are happy with the length of the leg.

My Stitch Pattern: For the kid’s sock I used a Double Moss stitch pattern.

Rnds 1 & 2: [K1, P1], rep to end.

Rnds 3 & 4: [P1, K1], rep to end.

Note: Using a stitch pattern with a set number of rnds can make it easier to count the rows in the leg when you are reading the first sock to make the second.

Heel Flap:

Knit across about half the stitches to form the heel flap.  Heel flap is worked flat.  Choose a slip stitch pattern for the heel, and include 2 or 3 garter stitch selvage stitches on each side.  Work heel flap rows back and forth until the heel flap is about square, ending with a WS row.

My Heel Flaps: I usually use either an “Eye of Partridge” or a plain slip stitch ridged pattern for the heel flap.

Heel flap A (Eye of Partridge)

Rows 1 & 3 (WS): K2 (selvage), P to last 2 sts, K2 (selvage).

Row 2 (RS): K2 (selvage), [Sl 1 pwise, K1], rep to last 2 sts (fits evenly or unevenly depending on # of sts), K2 (selvage)

Row 4 (RS): K2 (selvage), [K1, Sl1 pwise], rep to last 2 sts (evenly or unevenly), K2 (selvage)

Heel flap B (simple slip stitch ridges)

WS: K2 (selvage), P to last 2 sts, K2 (selvage).

RS: K2 (selvage), [Sl 1 pwise, K1], rep to last 2 sts (fits evenly or unevenly depending on # of sts), K2 (selvage)

Turning the Heel:

For a decrease short-row heel turn, find the middle of your heel stitches (either a stitch, or a space between 2 sts), and pick a number of sts on each side to be your heel’s “turning point”.  One stitch will make the angle of turn too acute, and vice versa for too many stitches. Aim for 1/2 – 1 inch width.

Knit across to the far left of your turning point (all turning point sts worked), SSK, K1, TURN.

Next short-row (WS): Sl 1 pwise, purl to far left of turning point (all turning point sts worked), P2tog, P1 turn.

Dec Short-row 1 (RS): Sl 1 pwise, K to slipped st, SSK, K1, TURN.

Dec Short-row 2 (WS): Sl1 pwise, P to slipped st, P2tog, P1, TURN.

Continue these 2 dec short-rows until you’ve worked the last possible RS short-row (if you have a final st that still needs to be dec’d on the WS, you can do that when picking up around the heel flap).

Picking Up Heel Stitches

Pick up and knit stitches along the left selvage edge of the heel flap using the purl bumps from the selvage sts.  If there is too much of a gap between the last purl bump and the beginning of the instep sts, pick up a st or two in between to fill in any potential hole.

Work across instep sts in patt.

Repeat the process for the right selvage edge, remembering about the gap between instep sts and first purl bump.

Rearrange sts on needle if req’d.

Note: At this point in the sock, I generally arrange my stitches on 3 needles – Needle 1 is mid-heel to just before instep, Needle 2 is instep sts, Needle 3 is the other half of heel sts.  I count the mid-heel as the beginning of my round until I reach the toe decreases.

Gusset Decreases

Evenly decrease the extra heel stitches on each side of the instep stitches with decrease ratio of your choice.  Continue decreases until you’ve reached your original stitch count.

My Gusset Decreases: I always decrease every other row, making a nice 45° angle. But you may want to vary this with a steeper incline (dec every row) or a sloping shape (dec every row for first 3 rows, then every other row, then every 3rd row, for example).


Continue working the foot evenly, keeping instep sts in patt, and sole sts in St st, until the sock is long enough (minus the toe length – about 1 1/2”).  Don’t be afraid to try it on the intended foot with the needles still in it!

Toe Decreases

Decide on a decrease scheme for your toe.  For a flat, rounded toe, you’ll want to gradually increase the rate of dec rows.

My Toe Decreases:  For the kid’s sock I used the following decrease scheme (where D is the decrease round and the numbers represent the # of rnds between dec rnds) –

D, 2, D, 1, D, 1, D, D, D. Leaving 10 sts for grafting.

For adult socks knit with sock weight yarn, my decrease scheme usually looks like this –

D, 3, D, 2, D, 2, D, 1, D, 1, D, 1, D, D, D… until I like the number of stitches left for grafting.  Usually between 16 and 20.

Grafting & Finishing

Use Kitchener Stitch to graft remaining stitches together.  Weave in ends.  Block if you feel like it (I usually don’t bother unless the socks are a gift and I want them to look their best).

Second Sock

Keep the first sock with you when working on the second, and refer to it as a pattern for creating its twin.

See the Baby Sock Reading Challenge for tips on how to use the first sock as a template.

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April Yarn Club Show & Share

Here are most of the lovely and plentiful projects & patterns shared at the April meeting.  If you missed sending in your pictures, and it’s not available on Ravelry, feel free to email me and I will be happy to update!

Marilyn brought in her Ua Shawl test knit in Tosh Merino Light

Marilyn also showed off her colourful Talulah Shawl using a variety of fingering weight yarn including Twinkle Toes by Dye Version

Liz wore her Enchanted Mesa sweater made with The Black Lamb Merino DK

Valerie brought in her Chiara Snood made with Misti Alpaca Handpainted Lace

Laura wore her Aftur sweater made with Lettlopi

Laura also showed her Bousta Beanie, made with her own Twin Oaks Farm DK, and Jamieson & Smith

Kris brought in her extremely colourful Rustic Lodge Christmas stocking made in vibrant shades of Alafoss Lopi.

Victoria brought in her Rockefeller shawl made with Socks that Rock Medium Weight.

Roxann brought in her oval shawlette made by lucet braiding with a chunky alpaca/wool blend.

Enjoy everyone!

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